Auf Wiedersehen 2013

Man, what a year it’s been?! As we struggled to stay awake to ring in 2013 in a little cottage in Wanaka, New Zealand, we had no idea just what was in store for us this year.

{wanderlust: mt. aspiring national park, new zealand} from kiwi and peach

This blog that was only a little twinkle in my eye, it would become my full time job.

The year and a half we thought we had left in Munich, it would become just nine months.

Those places on Must-See-Before-We-Leave-Europe list. Well, they were going to have to be seen, weren’t they?

{wanderlust: istanbul, turkey} from kiwi and peach

{wanderlust: dubrovnik, croatia} from kiwi and peach

{wanderlust: berlin, germany} from kiwi and peach

{wanderlust: budapest, hungary} from kiwi and peach

{wanderlust: florence, italy} from kiwi and peach

Kiwi and Peach {wanderlust: sahara desert}

Kiwi and Peach {wanderlust: Paris}

{wanderlust: hong kong} from kiwi and peach

5 continents,

12 countries,

and one transatlantic move later…

We will be welcoming 2014 in our new town—the town where we plan to settle down and be a while.

This year, we put down roots.

Kiwi and Peach | Meet Dooley

Will 2014 be an easier year than 2013? Probably not.

Growth {individually, as a family, and professionally}, consistent learning and navigating new experiences are rarely easy but as we’ve found, almost always worth the trouble.

So here’s to a year of finding joy in hard work, of dreaming big and accomplishing goals.

“May your coming year be filled with magic and dreams and good madness. I hope you read some fine books and kiss someone who thinks you’re wonderful, and don’t forget to make some art—write or draw or build or sing or live as only you can. And I hope, somewhere in the next year, you surprise yourself.” -Neil Gaiman

Dutch Apple Cake

As a part of my Christmas gift, in addition to some amazingly awesome Wüsthof knives and the fact that he built us a freaking bed {more on that later}, the Kiwi has agreed to share the recipe for one of his family’s Christmas traditions—Dutch Apple Cake. Am I one lucky girl or what? 

But back to the apple cake, this stuff is delicious. You’re going to want to go ahead and make it immediately. It’s Christmas… in your mouth.

My Grandparents were from the Netherlands, and this recipe has always been a staple of my Dad’s baking. When I was young I used to help him make it—a favourite challenge was to try to peel a whole apple in a single continuous spiral. And then eat it likewise. Later on I learned to make it myself, and it became a staple for any occasion requiring a cake in the Autumn or early Winter, when apples are fresh and those delicious cinnamon spices taste just perfect. Dad always makes one of these at Christmas too, though of course that falls in the middle of Summer in New Zealand.

Now that I find myself in the northern hemisphere, Christmas coincides with the perfect season for apple cake, so there’s even more reason to make it. In fact, after serving it to Lauren’s family at Christmas lunch yesterday, I’ve been put on notice that this will be My Job every Christmas for the foreseeable future.

By the way, making whipped cream is trivial as long as you have electric beaters—and you don’t need to add a truckload of sugar. If your whipped cream comes out of a can you’re doing it wrong, and that goes double if the can doesn’t actually contain any cream, in the sense of having come out of a cow.

You might think of this as more of a pie than a cake. I just think of it as delicious.

Dutch Apple Cake from Kiwi and Peach

Dutch Apple Cake

The Crust
¾ cup sugar
225g {8 ounces} butter
2⅔ cups self raising flour

The Filling
5 Granny Smith apples
2 Tbsp sugar
2 Tbsp self raising flour
1 heaped teaspoon cinnamon
1 egg

Whipped Cream
300mL {1/2 pint} cream
1 tsp sugar

Cream the butter and the sugar. {Melting the butter in the microwave makes this easy.} Then mix in the flour until it forms a dough. Expect to use your hands. Form the dough into a blob, wrap it in Glad wrap and put it in the fridge to chill while you prepare the filling.

Peel the apples, remove the cores. Over a large mixing bowl, cut them into cubes of about 1cm. Add the sugar, flour and cinnamon. Beat the egg and add half of it to the filling to bind the dry ingredients. Reserve the other half of the egg for glazing at the end.

Start preheating your oven to 180°C/355°F.

Butter a 9 inch expandable cake pan, or something of roughly equivalent size {ideally with a removable bottom}. Take around ⅝ of the dough from the fridge and press it out to cover the bottom of the tin and about an inch up the sides. Pour the filling in and pat it down with a fork until it is roughly level.

It’s at this point that Dad would let me eat whatever filling mixture was left over that wouldn’t fit in the cake. {I’m pretty sure he adds an extra apple to ensure overflow.} Don’t try this at home, kids! Remember, we’re not at home to Mr. Salmonella. {Though the risk is not high, it’s pretty unpleasant if you win the lottery.}

Roll or press out the remaining dough into a layer of about the same thickness as the sides/bottom of the cake. Cut it into strips about 1½ cm wide and lay them on top of the cake in a latticework arrangement. It’s fine to join together shorter strips, and at some point you’ll probably have to recombine the remnants and roll them out again—just beware, once it warms up the dough becomes very difficult to work with. Bonus: you get to eat any leftovers.

Sprinkle the top of the cake lightly with a little more cinnamon, then brush the remaining egg over the top with a pastry brush.

Bake at 180°C {355°F} for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Serve warm {outstanding} or cold {still very good} with freshly-whipped cream.

Dutch Apple Cake from Kiwi and Peach

No-Bake Date Ball Cookies

Every Christmas since I can remember my mom has made two special treats. One, so simple and straight forward that it hardly needs a recipe, is her white chocolate covered pretzels with peanuts. Those we would make multiple batches of, wrap them up, and give as gifts. The other special treat we kept for ourselves.

Each year as we were preparing to bake, my mom would get her recipe box down from above the fridge and extract the stained index card that held the recipe. Neither of us know where it came from, but we are thankful for it none-the-less. She would make the candy bit, I would mix in the krispies, she would roll the piping hot mixture into balls, and I would roll them in powdered sugar.

No-Bake Date Ball Cookies from Kiwi and Peach

Is it healthy? Certainly not, but it’s Christmas and it’s tradition.

No-Bake Date Ball Cookies from Kiwi and Peach

What’s your favorite Christmas tradition? 

Besides the baking, my other favorite tradition is having breakfast for dinner on Christmas Eve. This year the Kiwi is making his famous buttermilk biscuits, I’m making my goat cheese grits, and we’re having scramblers with bacon and the left over goat cheese. It is going to be so good!

No-Bake Date Ball Cookies from Kiwi and Peach

No-Bake Date Ball Cookies

{makes about 35-40 balls}

The Candy
1/2 cup butter
1 cup dark brown sugar
8 ounces of dates, pitted and chopped
1 tsp vanilla
a pinch of salt

The Krispy
1 cup pecans, chopped
1 cup coconut, shredded
2 cups of rice krispies cereal

about 1/4 cup powdered sugar for rolling

In a medium sized pot on low heat, combine the butter, brown sugar, and dates. Stir it around to melt the butter and dissolve the sugar. Let it simmer until it begins to be frothy and bubbly. Stir in the vanilla and salt then take the pot off the heat.

{The original recipe says to simmer for 5 minutes, but you don’t want to burn it. If its really frothy and bubbling before 5 minutes go ahead and take it off the heat or your end product will be rock hard.}

Mix in the pecans, coconut, and rice krispies and let it cool for about 5 minutes or until you can stand to touch it.

Pour your powdered sugar into a bowl you can roll the cookies around in.

Once it doesn’t feel like you’re holding a handful of hot coal, roll bits of the mixture into 1 inch balls and drop them into the bowl of powdered sugar. Roll them around a bit until they are lightly covered then, being sure to knock off the extra sugar, transfer them to your Christmas cookie tin and you’re finished!

Merry Christmas y’all!

A Gift Guide For the Home Cook from Kiwi and Peach

Oh. holidays.

Despite life being seriously bonkers right now, I wanted to stop by for a little chat. What’s new with you?

We have a house! It was touch an go there for a bit {a month}, but after an impromptu trip to Asheville, losing the most perfect house, and then finding our wonderful bungalow right in West Asheville, we officially have somewhere to call home. I am completely aware that this is a food blog not a design blog, but you’ll just have to indulge a few of the home posts that are going to be coming up next month. {Or not, but I’ll be posting them regardless.}

We are staying with my folks through Christmas—making up for lost family time the past two years. We are spending the weekend working on projects for the new house, wrapping gifts, and making lots of Christmas goodies. I’ll pop back in before Christmas to share one or two of those with y’all, but until then you can be dreaming of date ball cookies and delicious, buttery dutch apple cake.

Christmas is drawing closer and wish lists for the folks on my shopping list are seemingly nonexistent. What does one buy for the cousin you haven’t seen in two plus years that has no obvious hobbies and an aversion to alcohol? {Seriously, what?}

While I might not be able to solve my own gift dilemmas, I certainly can help you out with yours. I spend a ridiculous amount of time daydreaming about kitchen gadgets, pots and pans, etc. There are some beautiful, practical, and lovely things out there that might just be the perfect gift for the cook in your life. Most folks already have their basics, but I assure you everyone also has their ‘nice to have’ list. You know, the pretty stuff that they might not buy in their own, but you would be champion of the day if you got it for them. It’s all under $30 and any of it would be a sure fire hit in the Kiwi+Peach household. Here does.

A Gift Guide For the Home Cook in you Life from Kiwi and Peach

A Gift Guide For the Home Cook in you Life from Kiwi and Peach

1. Tupelo Honey Cafe{$29}
Love Southern food with a twist? Love farm-to-table? Love beautiful photography? If you only buy one cookbook, get this one. It’s hands-down my favorite cookbook of all time. Full of practical recipes that you can and will actually make at home, it’s a staple in our house.

2. Squirrel nut cracker from Target {$14}
Seriously, just look at it. It doesn’t get much cuter than that, right? While it might not be the most practical of nutcrackers, it will certainly look cute on their counter.

3. Copper measuring spoons from West Elm Market {still available in stores, $16}
These would make me smile every time I used them. Classy and a little fancy with some precious typography, they would be the perfect thing for all this Christmas baking!

4. Stoneware egg crate and fruit basket from Anthropologie {$12, $20}
The perfect things to store your farmers’ market finds in.

5. Goat tote from West Elm {$18}
This bag cracked me up. Perfect for toting groceries and your farmers’ market haul.

6. Farm Anatomy by Julia Rothman {$14}
This beautifully illustrated paperback is full of informative diagrams of anything you ever wanted to know about farms and farm animals. It’s certainly on my list.

{This post contains an Amazon affiliate link. That means that if you head over to Amazon from the link and choose to buy the book, a tiny bit of the money you spent on the book will come back to me for the referral.} 

Orange Honey Glühwein

As November becomes December, a wonderful thing starts to happen in Munich. Little stalls adorned with branches of pine and probably a few deer antlers start to pop up in squares, fields, and courtyards all over the city and really, the country. Selling everything from Christmas kitsch to handmade treasures, lebkuchen, and stollen, these stalls always seem to be buzzing with people enjoying the season and getting a bit of Christmas shopping done.

After wandering about in the freezing cold for a bit, folks naturally make their way to the most important stand at the market—the ever-present Glühwein stall. Nothing warms your hands, tummy, and heart like a nice long chat with friends over a piping cup of this hot mulled wine which, as Casey says, is the nectar of the gods. Though there are some variations like Nürnburg’s famous blueberry version or the white wine version, the standard is the red with a slight orange taste thanks to the fresh squeezed OJ and mulled peel.

Moving to Germany made me a much better Southern cook, so it stands to reason that the move back to the States will motivate me to learn the German treats we are going to miss so dearly. When brainstorming ideas for our family Christmas party, the thought of sharing this tasty part of German culture with my family gave me the kick in the tush I needed to make it. It’s not even hard, y’all.

Orange Honey Glühwein from Kiwi and Peach

Orange Honey Glühwein

serves 8

juice from 3 oranges {1 1/2 cups}
1 cup honey
2 cinnamon sticks
20 cloves
1 bottle {750 mL} of a slightly dry red wine, room temperature

Let’s get started by juicing your oranges. Wash them thoroughly. Roll the oranges on the counter to start breaking the membranes inside there. Then cut them in half and squeeze all of the juice into a bowl.

Heat a pot on medium heat. Pour the orange juice through a sieve into the pot and add the honey. Bring it to a boil then reduce the heat to low.

While that’s coming to a boil, go back to your orange peels. Take two of the halves and scrape the insides out. Stick the cloves through the peel. {This just makes it easier to fish them out later.}

Add the clove studded orange peel and cinnamon sticks to the pot and let it simmer on low for 30-40 minutes. {Some folks add star anise too, but I cannot abide that licorice flavor so clearly, I don’t. Up to you, just throwing it out there.}

Once it’s looking like a syrup, add your wine. Keep it on low and simmer until its steaming. You don’t want to boil it because then you’ll start losing alcohol content, and obviously, we want the alcohol content. Remove the the orange peel and the cinnamon sticks. Once it’s steaming, serve it up as is or, depending on the occasion, add a shot of rum.

Orange Honey Glühwein from Kiwi and Peach
Orange Honey Glühwein from Kiwi and Peach

Meet Dooley + Sweet Potato, Spinach, and Goat Cheese Pizza

We have a little addition to the Kiwi+Peach family. Meet Dooley.

She is five years old and likes long runs, chasing tennis balls, staring at you while you eat, cuddling and popcorn.

Kiwi and Peach | Meet Dooley

While she certainly isn’t a new addition, she hasn’t been living with us for about two years. For lots of logistical reasons, Dooley living in Germany was not going to work out. My sweet, sweet parents volunteered to look after her while we were away, but now that we are back, she will obviously be coming with us to Asheville.

I mean, I’ll try not to turn into a crazy dog lady, but seriously, look at that face. No promises.

Kiwi and Peach | Meet Dooley

So, so lucky to get to be her human. It’s safe to say she’s going to be a regular around here.

You know what else is going to be a regular around here, this pizza. {see what I did there}

A couple weeks ago I was trying to use up the last of food and clean out the pantry when inspiration hit in the form of pizza. As soon as it starts getting the least bit cold, I put sweet potatoes on just about everything. Why not pizza?

Sweet Potato, Spinach, and Goat Cheese Pizza from Kiwi and Peach

Sweet Potato, Spinach, and Goat Cheese Pizza + Roasted Red Pepper, Hazelnut, and Fig Pesto

The Potatoes
1 sweet potato
drizzle of olive oil
salt and pepper

The Basics
1 batch of whole wheat pizza dough
1 batch of pesto {recipe below}

The Toppings
1 cup of spinach, packed
5 oz goat cheese
drizzle of maple syrup

Preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C.

Wash your potato and dry it well. Slice it into rounds about the width of you pinky finger, about a 1/4 of an inch think. Lay them flat on a baking sheet, brush both sides with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and a bit of pepper. Pop them in the oven for about 20 minutes. When they are finished transfer them to a bowl and set them to the side.

Once you put the potatoes in, proof the yeast for your pizza dough and set it to the side. When the proof is done, go ahead and finish the dough. By the time you’re finished mixing that up the potatoes will be finished. Take them out of the oven and turn the heat off. Leave the door of the oven open so the oven can cool down a bit.

Put the pizza dough in a well greased skillet and pop it in the oven to rise for about 15 minutes.

While the dough is rising, whip up that pesto.

Roasted Red Pepper Pesto with Hazelnut and Figs from Kiwi and Peach

Roasted Red Pepper, Hazelnut, and Fig Pesto

makes about 1 cup

1/2 of a roasted red pepper
2 tsp tomato paste
1/4 cup hazelnuts
1 clove of garlic
3 dried figs, stems cut and quartered
1/2 tsp salt
3 tbsp olive oil

In a food processor, combine all of your pesto ingredients except the olive oil. Give it a whirl and then start slowly adding the olive oil as the machine is running. When you get it to a consistency you like, you’re done!

{Quick note about the pesto. The freshness of the hazelnuts you use have a huge effect on the taste. Some hazelnuts, usually ones meant for baking tend to taste slightly stale when eaten fresh. Once baked, that stale aftertaste disappears and it is delicious, so using not-so-fresh hazelnuts is okay for the pizza since you’ll be baking it. However, if you wanted to use this same pesto on say a crostini, or as a pasta sauce, you’re going to want to use fresher hazelnuts to avoid that unpleasant, stale aftertaste.}

When the dough is finished rising, transfer it to the baking sheet. Crank the oven back up to 400°F/200°C.

Roll the dough out to the size you’d like your pizza. Leaving space around the edge for a crust, slather the dough with an even layer of pesto then layer up the spinach, sweet potatoes, and finally the goat cheese. Drizzle a bit of maple syrup over the whole thing and pop it back in the oven for 20 minutes to bake the crust and melt that delicious, delicious cheese. Enjoy y’all!

Sweet Potato, Spinach, and Goat Cheese Pizza from Kiwi and Peach

Sweet Potato, Spinach, and Goat Cheese Pizza from Kiwi and Peach

Servus München + I’m Going Back Home: Nina Simone

This was supposed to post yesterday. Oops. Somewhere in the middle of getting up at the crack of dawn, getting on a plane, an 11 hour flight, and then getting to see our friends and family for the first time in a a year and a half that obviously that didn’t happen. So just pretend like it’s still yesterday. Okay? Thanks.

Our last day Munich has arrived. This past Saturday we officially handed over our wonderful apartment that has been the best first home we could have asked for. Today, we get on a plane.

Christmas time in Germany is magical. Twinkling lights on the streets, the smell of glühwein everywhere you go, and the lebkuchen, oh the lebkuchen. We just couldn’t miss this season completely. We didn’t have to be in the States quite yet, so we stayed and said goodbye to Munich properly.

There were coffee and dinner dates with friends that filled our hearts, trips to Christmas markets and cups of glühwein that filled our tummies, and most of all, moments when we took a look around and thanked our lucky stars we got to call this place home for the past two years.

We are so very loved. Thank you so much to everyone that made our time in Munich so incredibly special. We will miss you tons and you’ll always have a place to rest your head if you’re ever in Asheville.

But for now…

48 Hours in Munich

In the more than two years that we have called Munich home, we have learned a great deal about the local culture, found some favorite haunts that we keep coming back to, and were often called upon to give visiting friends and family an authentic taste of Bavaria. Today, our last day in the city, we’re sharing our best tips with you. In the spirit of the New York Times 36 hours series, here’s our guide to experiencing traditional, Bavarian Munich in 48 hours.

Let’s begin with assuming that you’re here in the summer. To make up for the truly miserable, soul-sucking winters we have to survive here, Mother Nature is kind enough to give us some of the most absolutely gorgeous summers. The best time to visit is between June and August. If you absolutely must visit in the winter though, come in December when the Christmas markets are on and the weather is not yet too cold to sustain life.

Kiwi and Peach's 48 Hours in Munich Guide


4pm—Augustiner Keller Biergarten
Admit it, you’re here for the beer aren’t you? Your first order of business after you get off the train is to head straight to the Augustiner Biergarten. Grab a Maß of Munich’s best beer and relax in the shade of the giant chestnut trees that have been there since the 1800s.

5.30pm—Bavaria Statue
Take a wander across the Hackerbrücke to the Theresienwiese, the scene of Oktoberfest. Halfway down you’ll spot the colossal statue of Bavaria. In the summer, between the hours of 9am and 6pm, you can climb the inside of the statue and enjoy views over the city while seated on a plush sofa made of cast bronze.

Kiwi and Peach's 48 Hours in Munich Guide

It’s only appropriate that on your first night in Munich you’re gnawing on a huge hunk of pork. Pork knuckle—basically it’s your own personal pork roast in miniature, complete with crackling—is the signature Munich dish. You can get it pretty much anywhere in the city, but the best is at Haxnbauer. As you walk past the window, you can watch the Hax’n roasting in front of a charcoal grill. Make your way inside and find a seat. Demolishing an entire Schweinshaxe single-handed is a herculean task, but luckily the standard order is for half of one. Make sure to order a side of mashed potatoes and to switch out the included {cold} Krautsalat for the excellent {warm} Sauerkraut or the out-of-this-world-amazing Apfel Blaukraut. Alternatively, the sliced pork knuckle {my go-to order} comes with mashed potatoes and Sauerkraut already and saves you the trouble of sawing it off the bone if learning primitive surgery in public is not your idea of a good time. Most of the beers here are from outside Munich and are pretty ordinary representatives of their types, but the Franziskaner Weißbier is a notable exception.

Kiwi and Peach's 48 Hours in Munich Guide

Take a wander over to the Hofbräuhaus which is just around the corner. While I can’t recommend the beer or the food, just seeing the Hofbräuhaus is a Munich must. Have a look at the regulars’ Steins that have been passed down from generation to generation which are kept under lock and key to your left as you walk in the main entrance. Walk through the hall and enjoy Bavarian classics like Sweet Home Alabama being played by the Oompah band while seeing the waitresses carry upwards of 10 maß’n at a time.


Breakfast at a Bakery
Get to Marienplatz a little early and stop by Rischart for a quick breakfast. Load up for breakfast and morning tea. Their chocolate croissants are seriously the best I’ve ever had.

10am—Sandemann’s NewEurope Free Walking Tour
Meet in front of the Glockenspiel in Marienplatz for the free walking tour {the guides work for tips}. Usually led by english-speaking university students, this is a informative and funny tour where you get a feel for the layout of the city and learn something new every time. The tour takes about 3 hours and ends at the Viktualienmarkt. Take a wander through, have a look at the different food stalls, and maybe grab some dried fruit or some nice cheese from the cheesemonger.

Kiwi and Peach's 48 Hours in Munich Guide

Hop on the S-Bahn and head out to the Hirschgarten, a former royal hunting ground, for a late lunch. Though it’s off the tourist trail, it is actually the largest Biergarten in Bavaria with over 8000 seats. Munich Biergärten are all self-service, but Hirschgarten is the last to maintain the tradition of patrons selecting and washing their own glasses. So grab yourself a Maß, have it filled with Augustiner and collect a plate of Obatzda {a delicious slurry of cheeses} and a große Wies’n-Breze {a giant pretzel bigger than your head}. Then it’s time to sample Munich’s most primal delicacy. The recipe for Steckerlfisch is simple: take one fish—gutted but otherwise intact {skin and head on}—shove it on a stick, rub liberally with salt and grill over an open charcoal fire before serving rolled up in a piece of paper. Head over to the Steckerlfisch stand and pick up a Mackrele. Settle yourself down at a table near where the deer still browse and enjoy a nice quiet lunch.

Kiwi and Peach's 48 Hours in Munich Guide

Kiwi and Peach's 48 Hours in Munich Guide

5pm—Schloss Nymphenburg
The former royal hunting grounds are, unsurprisingly, located not far from a magnificent royal palace. From Hirschgarten, take a short walk to Romanplatz and jump on Tram 12 to make your way to Schloss Nymphenburg. If you’re only in Bavaria for a couple of days and don’t have time to visit the famed Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles {or the lesser-known Herrenchiemsee}, Nymphenburg is a great consolation prize. My advice, though, is to just focus on the gardens. They are massive, gorgeous and, best of all, free! Take a stroll through the paths, watch the swans, maybe check out the botanical garden, and definitely wander down the canal.

Kiwi and Peach's 48 Hours in Munich Guide

Munich knows how to put on a good festival. While Oktoberfest is certainly the most famous, if you’re here between late June and early August, you’ve lucked out. The Tollwood summer festival is on and it is one of the best, with food from all over the world, music and a general hippy vibe. Hop back on Tram 12 and make your way to Olympiapark to pay it a visit. {Infanteriestrasse is the tram stop. From there just follow the crowds.} Be sure to check out the Marrakech tent to see the craft they’re demonstrating and to see some traditional performances. If you’re in the mood for another beer, head to the Andechs tent where you can sample a bit of the monks’ brew.

{If you have an extra day in Munich, I highly recommend taking a trip out to Andechs which is just south of Munich and reachable from the S-Bahn. The monastery is perched high on a hill and, after a bit of a hike, you can cool down with one of their nice, cold brews. They also have some great pork knuckle.}

Amid a stand of trees in the middle of Tollwood {just behind the Marrakech tent} lies one of Munich’s hidden gems, the Ost-West Friedenskirche. It’s a church built by a refugee Russian priest from found materials, beginning in the 1940s, and still maintained as a museum after his death at the age of 110 in 2004. During the festival it’s open well into the evening.


9am—Weißwurst Frühstück at the Weißes Bräuhaus
Weißwurst Frühstück is about as Bavarian as you get. In fact, I was staying with a Bavarian family for my first Christmas here in Munich and this is what we had for Christmas breakfast. Weißwürste, meaning white sausages, are made of veal but without any of the preservatives that you usually find in sausages. As a result, they are traditionally eaten only before noon on the day that they are made. The Weißes Bräuhaus is famous for maintaining this tradition, as well as for being the HQ for Schneider Weiss and hence home of the world’s best Weißbier, and for offering a chance at experiencing the traditional Bavarian attitude of the wait staff {though, disappointingly, our waitresses have almost always been extremely nice}. It’s a Munich institution.

Ordering before noon, though, is only the first piece of Weißwurst protocol that must be observed to successfully navigate the minefield of potential Weißwurst faux pas. It is also critical that you do not eat the skin, and there are three culturally-approved methods to effect its removal. The first, and easiest for beginners, is to begin by cutting the sausage in half. Stick your fork in the cut end and then slit the skin down the length of the sausage. Slip your knife under the skin along one side of the cut to get an edge loose and peel from there. Extra difficulty points can be earner by doing essentially the same thing but without cutting it in half at the beginning. Finally, the most advanced technique is known as the ‘auszuzeln’ method (most likely for its onomatopoeic qualities), and simply entails sucking the sausage out. Use your best discretion.

Weißwürste and the accompanying pretzels {serve yourself from the big basket on the table} should both be eaten dipped in the sweet mustard that Bavaria is famous for, and washed down with a Schneider Weißbier. There are about ten beers to choose from, ranging from the Original to my favorite, the spring-y Mein Grünes to the Aventinus which is a dark, doppelbock and the Kiwi’s particular favorite. For a special treat try the Aventinus Eisbock, which looks similar to the regular Aventinus but adds even more amazing, complex flavours into the mix—and weighs in at a hefty 12% alcohol, though in a mercifully smaller serving size. Feel weird drinking with the sun still below the yardarm? Don’t. Everyone else will be too. When in Munich, right?

Kiwi and Peach's 48 Hours in Munich Guide

11am—Museum Brandhorst
Now that you’re sufficiently boozed up, it’s seems like a good time to head to a museum. The museum quarter boasts four art museums, each dedicated to a different era, and they all cost only €1 apiece on Sundays. You can choose between the old masters {Alte Pinakothek}, 19th Century {Neue Pinakothek} or modern {Pinakothek der Moderne}, but for us Museum Brandhorst is the one you can’t miss. Seeded by the private collection of Udo and Annett Brandhorst, this museum holds impressive works of contemporary and pop art from the likes of Andy Warhol, Sigmar Polke, and, my personal favorite, Cy Twombly. Seriously, there is a whole floor of Twomblys, including a room specially designed to display the epic series Lepanto. An entire floor, folks. I’m pretty sure heaven is a bit like that.

1pm—Englischer Garten and Seehaus
Join the masses of Münchners and take a walk through the Englisher Garten {so-called because of its informal layout, in contrast to a formal French garden}. Stroll past the Prinzregentenstraße bridge and see the surfers, then head into the garden. Take a walk past the Chinesischer Turm Biergarten to see the tower, but keep on going north. A better Biergarten awaits. You will eventually happen upon a lake and on the far side of said lake lies your destination, Seehaus. It’s the perfect place to relax, have a nice, cold beer {they serve Paulaner}, admire the swans and watch folks row their boats on the lake. When you finish that beer you might even take a boat out yourself.